PARK IT: Guadalupe Mountains

by Dave Pidgeon on October 6, 2011

El Capitan

El Capitan rises above Guadalupe Mountains National Park. (amarilloposters / flickr)

You have to go a LONG way to see this west Texas beauty, but once you’re deep in its desert scrub and sky island mountains, you’ll find the 350-mile drive from Santa Fe, N.M. worth your while. The Guadalupe Mountains are as rugged and impressive as anything else in the desert Southwest.

WHAT TO DO – Get a Chihuahuan Desert welcome by hiking the 2.3-mile loop to Manzanita and Smith springs, which you can find near the Frijole Ranch History Museum. Keep your eyes open and limbs clear of cacti, but once you reach the spring, remain vigilant for javelina or desert reptiles (yes, including the western diamondback rattlesnake; it’s the Old West, after all). As you continue on, you’ll come to discover that deserts aren’t just dust and nothingness, that gardens actually grow in the midst of all that heat and dryness, including the madrone tree with its peeling-skin bark and pink flowers.

Looking for something a little more laid back? The national park service promises 11,000 visible stars at night. “To gaze at such a dazzling array can both humble us, as we recognize our insignificance, and inspire us as we identify with something larger than ourselves,” they say. That makes staying at the $8-per-night campgrounds quite attractive (if you can live without showers because they don’t have ‘em).

Texas Madrone

A Texas Madrone tree grows in Guadalupe Mountains NP, one of the few that can survive. (cwsteeds / flickr)

For the hardier adventurer, Guadalupe Mountains National Park has a total of 85 miles of backcountry trail weaving through those rugged West Texas peaks. Beth Nobles at WestMountainTrail.com says work your way to Route 137 and the Dog Canyon Ranger Station at the park’s northern border, where you can pick up a backcountry permit, and you can access the Tejas Trail. From there, the park is yours. Go where few tread like the 8,631-foot Bush Mountain or West Dog Canyon, South McKittrick Canyon and the McKittrick Ridge. Check with the park service for route information such as closures.

FAUNA – Guadalupe Mountains National Park is home to deer, mountain lions and other desert mammals, but perhaps most astonishing are its bats — all 16 species of them. And if you happen to be in the park at night, keep your eyes open for the hog-nosed skunk and the ringtail, both nocturnal animals. Says the park service: “The hog-nosed skunk is a rooter that uses its long claws and pig-like snout to dig in the ground for beetles, grubs, and worms. he rocky canyons are home to the nocturnal ringtail. The ringtail, which looks like a cross between a fox and a weasel … uses its large eyes and ears to hunt for insects, lizards, small rodents, and berries.”

DID YOU KNOW? – Ye many years ago, this national park sat beneath a massive inland sea. In fact, the mountains once existed as reefs in that ocean. Also, Texas’s highest mountain (Guadalupe Peak) rises to 8,749 feet above sea level and is located in the heart of the park’s backcountry.

GET THERE – Let’s be honest. Guadalupe Mountains National Park lies a long, long way from any sizable town. That’s how they do it in Texas with all that space. From Santa Fe, give yourself a good seven to eight hours to drive there. From Carlsbad, N.M., follow U.S. 180/62 West for 55 miles before turning right into the park headquarters.

CONNECT – The park website can be find by clicking here.

TexasMountainTrail.com can be seen here and Beth Noble’s Twitter feed is TrailGirl.

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WALK THIS WAY: Hikers and hunters share the woods

by Dave Pidgeon on October 4, 2011

Hunting and Hiking

Autumn brings hunters and hikers together in the woods (Compass Points Media / flickr)

Ah, autumn.

We celebrate your chilled breezes, your crystal skies, your glorious foliage. But the leaves aren’t the only thing turning orange this time of year.

As we roll into October, hikers begin to share the woods with hunters as archers first – and then riflemen and women – enter the wilderness. It’s a fact of the hiking life. From now until May, we share the woods.

Here are a couple of tips to help you stay safe if you’re hiking or backpacking on lands where hunting is permitted:

  • KNOW THE SEASONS – Each state has scheduled hunting seasons – bow season for deer, rifle for bear and so on – so check with your state’s game commission so you know what’s hunted and who’s hunting them.
  • WEAR BLAZE ORANGE – Most of us don’t go into wilderness to make a fashion statement (although I’ve seen a fair share of teens try to replicate an Abercrombie ad more than once). So pull on that blaze orange vest. Don that fluorescent orange cap. Besides, in many places, it’s the law that you wear a certain amount of blaze orange if you plan to enter the woods during hunting season. You might not wear all that bright color walking the sidewalks of your hometown, but in the wilderness, it’s about being seen and being safe.
  • HIKE WITH OTHERS – Here’s the trick: be seen and be heard. Go hiking with a group and keep a conversation going. Don’t be obnoxious, but talk loud enough so hunters know you’re there.
  • HIKE DURING MID-DAY – Hunters love the mornings and evenings. So do hikers, and it’s for the same reason – it’s usually the best time to spot wildlife. There are fewer hunters in the woods during the afternoon, but keep in mind that there may still be a few out there.
  • SHARE THE WOODS – Hiking during hunting season? Keep that mindset with you. Hunting is not going to go away; it’s just a fact of the hiking life. Let’s get into a sharing mood. So much of our wilderness is public, and some of that public enjoys hunting. We’d appreciate it if hunters kept that “share the woods” mentality, and we should show the same courtesy.

These are just a few tips on how to stay safe while hiking during hunting season, which usually lasts into May. Be seen, be heard and stay safe!

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MY DIRECTION: The education of a backpacker

September 26, 2011

This edition of MY DIRECTION discusses the pending birth of Dave’s first child, and how that will contribute to his education as a backpacker.

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YOUR CITY: Pittsburgh, Pa.

September 22, 2011

YOUR CITY travels to western Pennsylvania to see the wilder side of Pittsburgh, Pa. Learn where you can hike, backpack and paddle around the Steel City.

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PARK IT: Lassen Volcanic

September 20, 2011

PARK IT looks at one of the lesser known national parks in California – Lassen Volcanic.

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BASE CAMP: Hurricane Irene swamps the outdoors

August 29, 2011

A roundup of trail and backcountry closures caused by Hurricane Irene.

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MY DIRECTION: Be a husband first

August 25, 2011

Find out why I’m a husband first and a hiker second.

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MY DIRECTION: Back to the ‘Dacks

August 23, 2011

Casey Lyons, an editor at Backpacker, wrote in the latest edition about a trip he took to New York’s Adirondacks Park and the existential questions nagging his mind: Mostly, I want to find out if my 18-year-old self would punch the man I’ve become in the face. Harsh? Sure, but I’m considering many of the [...]

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Unhappy hiker feet

June 9, 2011

How an injury disrupted Dave’s grandiose plans for the 2011 hiking season.

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THE LONG WALK: Worlds End State Park, Pa.

June 2, 2011

Check out this 16.7-mile backpack or long day hike in Worlds End State Park, Pa., part of the Loyalsock Trail system.

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